Tuesday, March 18, 2008

Arriving in Parbo

Well here it goes...the Technically Disinclined One goes blogwild! Being that this is my first foray into the world of blogging, please be patient if it is not sufficiently visually pleasing or technologically advanced! I thought it would be a good way for me to keep everyone up to date on all of the goingson in Monkey Town, since I know you are all dying to know who is grooming whom and who pooped on my head today! Being that I will be up in Brownsberg Nature Park (aka the official Monkey Town), where I don't have internet access, most of the time, I will make "postings" every time I come into Paramaribo (aka Parbo, aka Land of Intercultural Harmony!), which should be once a month or so. That way you won't have to put up with my ramblings too frequently! By the way, if you are wondering what "Bisa" means, it is the Saramacca (local Surinamese west African) name for the bearded saki monkey (the monkeys I study, in case you missed one of my million mentions of them). This name is convenient, because it also happens to be the sound that the monkeys make when they are looking for each other, kind of resembles a whip..."beee-ssssssahhh"...well, you get the idea!

So...where to begin? Maybe I can tell you about what a relief and pleasure it is to be here! I left Kent after "the biggest blizzard since '73," according to my dad. I think I vaguely remember a similar comment from him last year during The Blizzard of '07...and perhaps one during The Blizzard of '06, but that is neither here nor there, because this was certainly the biggest snow storm I have ever seen! I had to leave Little Bear, my car, under a huge heap of snow because he wasn't going anywhere! I have included a photo for your viewing pleasure (adding photos to this blog is extremely satisfying and enpowering!). Despite the stormy weather, we were able to have a going-away party (which I conveniently announced then spent absolutely no time planning, but thanks to some diehard buddies, it was a huge success and complete with a monkey cupcake cake, yes, there is a photo). By Saturday, my trusty dad had to come rescue me (that was when the blizzard conversation ensued), and two days and a couple more trips to Target later I eventually made it to the airport! Of course I spent some time crying on Babu's and Cohiba's shoulders the night before I left. They were thoroughly confused, or maybe disgusted, I can't really tell the difference in their expressions.

By last Monday I was in Houston, where I visited Diane (Dickerson) Santamaria and her "new" baby. We had a great time, but, unfortunately, little Parker wasn't all that excited about my visit and cried all night. We will call this Sleepless Night Number 2, since spending the previous night crying with B and C, with a million things running through my head, wasn't all that restful. The next day, when I arrived at the Houston airport, I was told I would have to pay a second time for my overweight bag. Well, feeling a little on edge from my first experience with motherhood and being that I was on my most stubborn behavior, I decided to "show those Continental people" by putting 20 extra pounds of nuts and other highly important items into my carry-on...topping out at one 60 pound carry on and one 25 pound "personal item." You can imagine how smug I felt as I stumbled away from the counter carrying over half my weight in "gear." You can also imagine the surprised look on the face of the unsuspecting guy from whom I innocently requested "a little help" getting the big bag into the overhead compartment... I definitely showed somebody... Anyhow, the flight out of Houston was delayed--always a bad sign when your destination is Trinidad. Who would have guessed that Trinidad is not exactly a nation of laid back airport employees who are dying to greet you with a smile and a hand shake. Oh no, Trinidaddy and mommy airport employees are the biggest sticklers for the rules I have ever met. Although, my flight from Houston still arrived with an hour to spare, I was not allowed on the connecting flight to Paramaribo because, "those are the rules." Furthermore, since the flight I booked on-line was "illegal" (no kidding, illegal!) because the connection that I made was only 1 hour and 45 minutes (not the required 2 hours), I was exiled to the benches of the airport where I spent Sleepless Night Number 3--and a pile of money to change the flight they made me miss! Although, as airport benches go, these were pretty nice (about on par with the benches in the police department in Cozumel, Mexico), I think I only walked away with 1 hour of sleep from that night. There was a girl on the bench next to me talking on her cell phone and paging through the US magazine I immediately regretted lending her until 3 in the morning, and then, as luck would have it, someone traveling with a very vocal rooster arrived at the airport at 4. Being that the Trinidad airport is a fairly echo-y place, the possibility of sleeping vanished upon his arrival. I spent the next day babysitting my bags and basically resenting every last nut I brought. My opinion of the disposition of the people of Trinidad was transformed, however, by all of the friendly people who noticed my glum expression and came over to cheer me up! Apparently, it is only the Continental employees who have no empathy whatsoever! Anyhow, by 6 PM I checked in--over three hours ahead of time (you give me rules, I'll take your rules). However, they were not impressed with my carry on situation. Apparently, the "rules" state that you can only carry on 15 pounds (I have a feeling these rules apply differently depending on how close to the end of your rope you seem and I was officially at the end). Eighty dollars and numerous fruitless arguments later (don't people get any weight points for weighing less than a six-foot tall man?), I finally made it past security. By the way the "rules" on the place include a laundry list of things you have to do before the plane lands--put up your seat, put up your tray (okay, I know these), put down your arm rest (okay...), open your window shade (right...), and, my favorite, fold your blanket and put it away. Basically, I guess everyone has to be entirely alert when the place lands. I was anything but!

In Parbo my mood and my luck took a huge turn! I was escorted quickly through customs by a friend's brother who happens to work for immigration. On the two-hour-long, extraordinarily bumpy ride into the city, I giggled the whole way because I was so glad to have arrived! Everyone else in the bus was acting a little bit more appropriately for 3 AM. Excitement carried me into Sleepless Night Number 4, but I'm not complaining about that one!

Since the trip, we (my new partner in the monkey business is a student from Berkeley named Andrew Ritchie) have been through a whirlwind of preparation--boxes and boxes of groceries, meetings at the university, okay, a beer here and there. Andrew has arranged for us to work with an undergraduate student from the university who will work on her bachelor's thesis while being our field assistant. I have also spoken with some people at the university who are interested in helping us organize an environmental education series with the kids in Brownsweg. Brownsweg is a town right at the base of the Brownsberg ("berg," in case it's not clear by now, means burg or plateau). Since there will be between two and ten Surinamese and American researchers in Brownsberg throughout this upcoming year, it seems like a great time to have an environmental education series. I hope to talk to the teachers in Brownsweg as soon as I get situated in Brownsberg to see if they would be interested in working with us.

We've also found a great house to stay in when we come to the city (fits about 6 and costs 15 Euros a night total...and it's really nice!). Most importantly there is a Cohiba dog right down the street (of course, a picture was in order!). Being that this is something like the fifth dog I have seen with her phenotype, I have a feeling that it is the default! This one is so cute, she has not responded positively yet to my dingy-bingy-ing, but at least I can pretend she is the my little princess! The house is also across the street from Iwan's orchid and bat paradise...photo heaven! Oh--and here's a photo of the prehistoric fish soup we had at my friend Meriel's house...yum!

Well, it seems like we will finally be off to "the field" (aka the forest) tomorrow, so you won't have to read another one of these novels for a while. I hope you guys are all doing well! Miss you all, and remember, the door to Monkey Town is always wide open! Fa waka for now!